Tuesday, March 27, 2012

So, got a text from my brother Danny, saying he thought that our spot would be firing. That was around 7:45am. I showed up around 10:30am, and just saw 2 vehicles in the parking lot. That could be good news, on one hand, but not so good news, on the other. Just my brothers SUV and our friend, Mike's truck in the lot. I still love the anticipation and child like wonder at what the ocean will look like when I lay eyes on it.....every time I go down to surf. It never gets old, my friends. 

I always have to look at the surf before I go out. Check the tide, wind, swell, shape of the waves, size(big or small); overall conditions. So, I hoofed it down to the trail head, coffee and camera in hand, to have a look. Only Mike and Danny out, surfing in front of the reef. You need to know what you're doing to surf in front of this reef. I've seen many guys paddle out, new to the break;  only to get tossed on the reef rocks, stumble to shore, bleeding and bruised, and walk the 1/4 mile up a very steep hill. Not too much fun.


So, it was about 2-4ft, occasional bigger set wave, but didn't have much push or shape. Typical post storm wind waves, disorganized and weak. With a bruised tail bone and questionable surf quality, I chose to pass, and watch my brother and friend. They each got some waves, but nothing to write home about. I went back to my car to get my book, and read on the bench waiting for them to finish their surf session.

I brought down my Redline 11 today, but will also bring my Regal as well, tomorrow. I will surf tomorrow, regardless of the conditions. I only have 2 more days to surf before I work, this Friday.

I work at the premier surf shop in South Orange County, but will be leaving in 4 weeks. I will be pursuing my original career path(last 30+ years) as a National Sales Manager for a start up contemporary/better Men's apparel line. I should be back to work selling clothing by June 1. I've had the better part of 2 years out of the apparel business, and the break has rekindled my desire to make my mark in the apparel industry. Too that end, I will also start my own better clothing line to be sold to all my contemporary retailers across the US. The line will be a surf influenced line, mainly screen printed knits, fleece, and caps. I don't plan on selling any surf shops, as the price points will be prohibitive.

Well, that is about all I have for today. I will report the surf conditions tomorrow after I surf. Until then, make it a good day.

Ciao,




Scooter Surfs




No comments:

Post a Comment