Wednesday, March 28, 2012

     As I pull into the parking lot I see my brother, Mike, and a few other cars. Most of the cars belong to dog owners, but Danny informs me that there are 3 guys in the water, and they aren't catching any waves. Mike said he's going out, because the waves are cleaner, and look to have more push than yesterday. So, Danny and I walk back down to the trail head and take a peek at the waves. There's a little surface chop, slight south wind, but the waves look very peaky, and undisturbed by the wind. We all have poly boards/blanks, so chop isn't a huge factor when it comes to performance turns and dropping into the wave itself. E-type blanks are a different story. And there's the Owl on the truck.

     The owl on Mike's black truck is a funny story. We became friendly out in the water, after seeing each other so much at our spot. So, one day I paddle out and tell him there are 5-6 crows on his cab and the hood of his truck. He says, "yeah, they leave scratch marks and crap all over my car"! So I say, "why don't you buy one of those plastic Owls that people put on their houses and boats to scare off Seagulls?" "Wow, that's a great idea", Mike says. Next time I pull into the parking lot, there is his big black truck and a plastic Owl, staring off the crows. Guess what, it worked. I really think the crows thought his truck was the King Crow, and they hung out to pay tribute to the King, ha.


     The surf was super fun, very peaky, rights and lefts, good power and speed. Danny and Mike surfed in front of the reef, and I surfed in front of the trail. The other 3 guys that were out, exited the water as we entered. Intimidated? Probably just tired? I had some great rights where I pulled off a couple of 180 degree cutbacks into the white water, then turned another 180 degrees to surf the rest of the wave. I haven't done that in quite a while. I love my Redline 11. Yellow and mellow, but it catches anything, turns like an 8ft board, but nose rides as well as my 9'7" single fin Regal. Danny rides a Senate 9'8" tri-fin and Mike rides a 7' Ellis quad. Both guys surf extremely well. That's why I stay away from them in the water.

     These are not the greatest pictures, but it's kinda hard to take good action shots with a point and shoot camera. Mike (top pic) is getting ready to hit the bottom and crank his turn to meet up with the approaching section so he can then do an off the lip re-entry. Danny's (bottom pic) got good speed and is starting his bottom turn to do a snap turn off the top, with plenty of face to work with. He should be smiling when he kicks out; if he doesn't hit the reef, which is in front of him and to the left, out of the picture.

It felt good to get wet, surf by myself and watch my brother and Mike a couple of hundred yards away, rip it up. The walk up the hill is always a killer, but it's a small price to pay to get quality surf to yourself.

Until next time, this is scooter surfs, bidding you a fond adieu......
   

No comments:

Post a Comment