Got a text from Mike at 8:45am saying our spot was going off. After exiting my car, this was my first look at the surf, coffee in hand. It looks pretty good, bigger than yesterday, with less water/wave texture created by the wind. Needless to say, after taking this picture, I walked back to my car to suit up and pack my back pack.

     Just Joe (another guy that surfs Lloyd's spot) and Mike surfing the reef, and getting really long, good rides. The shape is hit or miss; if the set comes thru and doesn't have both swell directions in the wave mix, it usually will be a close out wave. A close out wave is a wave that breaks all at once; you take off and have no where to go. Sometimes those waves are fun, if you have a plan? There are a few things you can do.....1st, take off and do a quick turn off the top, then do a big re-entry off the approaching section of the wave, riding the breaking whitewater cylinder straight down. Hard to do for sure. 2nd, you can go straight down as far and as fast into the flat as you can, then when your speed is maxed, you make the hardest bottom turn you can, bending at the knees, then extending your legs for maximum extension off your turn. This is really fun to do, but be prepared to take one on the head. Or you complete your turn, then cutback and straighten out, riding the soup(whitewater foam) for a while or you jump off your board. You have to be quick. I guess the last thing you can do is make your bottom turn sooner, then drive straight up into the throwing lip and either kick out (leaving the wave) or try to pivot off the top, turning thru the exploding lip and ride the wave back down into the vortex of the beast. Not a problem on 2-4 ft waves, but when the surf is overhead, you really have to be focused and committed, or you can sustain a very serious injury.

          So, my session was not that good today. As well as I surfed yesterday, I felt like I didn't have my stoke on, and my wave count and surfing suffered. It's funny how that works! Conditions were almost ideal; good size, good power, and consistent. Doesn't make for an enjoyable paddle out, but 10 minutes later, I was outside. Anyway, had a little trouble catching waves on my Redline 11, rode a few with less than exciting results. Timing was a mess today. I did manage a big set close-out wave where I cranked a huge bottom turn, only to be forced to straighten out because there was no wave face to ride. That one turn put a smile on my face, as there is always one ride in a session that you remember for the rest of the day, and sometimes well beyond. Kinda like a round of golf where your game kinda sucks, but everything seems to come together on that one shot, or that one putt for birdie or par. Keeps you coming back, right?

     Here is the reef showing its teeth. Gnarly, big, and sharp. Lots of blood and skin on those rocks.

   "Peeled and ready to go"! I really do love this board. If you want a board that does everything well, and I mean everything, then this is the board for you. It's a "1 board Quiver".

     This is where I park my stuff. Just a little alcove, that sits just below the trailhead viewing area. It's so nice that the sand is filling back in and creating a lovely beach. This place is magic, never looks as good from the top as it does in the water. It is a fickle wave, not terribly powerful, like Huntington Beach, tends to feather before breaking, so late take offs are the norm. It is a bitch to walk up and down the trail, but that definitely cuts down on the crowd. Zoo city is just a mile up the beach, but you only have to walk 20-30 yards to the water, on level sand. Just you and 150 of your best friends!!

     Well, I have to work the next 3 days, so you won't hear from me until next week. I will start writing about past surf sessions, my ear operation last year, when I had to remain on land for 2 months. Kept busy taking photos of my son, brother and friends. Will post those pics as well.

Ciao for now,

Scooter Surfs