Got a text from Mike at 8:45am saying our spot was going off. After exiting my car, this was my first look at the surf, coffee in hand. It looks pretty good, bigger than yesterday, with less water/wave texture created by the wind. Needless to say, after taking this picture, I walked back to my car to suit up and pack my back pack.

     Just Joe (another guy that surfs Lloyd's spot) and Mike surfing the reef, and getting really long, good rides. The shape is hit or miss; if the set comes thru and doesn't have both swell directions in the wave mix, it usually will be a close out wave. A close out wave is a wave that breaks all at once; you take off and have no where to go. Sometimes those waves are fun, if you have a plan? There are a few things you can do.....1st, take off and do a quick turn off the top, then do a big re-entry off the approaching section of the wave, riding the breaking whitewater cylinder straight down. Hard to do for sure. 2nd, you can go straight down as far and as fast into the flat as you can, then when your speed is maxed, you make the hardest bottom turn you can, bending at the knees, then extending your legs for maximum extension off your turn. This is really fun to do, but be prepared to take one on the head. Or you complete your turn, then cutback and straighten out, riding the soup(whitewater foam) for a while or you jump off your board. You have to be quick. I guess the last thing you can do is make your bottom turn sooner, then drive straight up into the throwing lip and either kick out (leaving the wave) or try to pivot off the top, turning thru the exploding lip and ride the wave back down into the vortex of the beast. Not a problem on 2-4 ft waves, but when the surf is overhead, you really have to be focused and committed, or you can sustain a very serious injury.

          So, my session was not that good today. As well as I surfed yesterday, I felt like I didn't have my stoke on, and my wave count and surfing suffered. It's funny how that works! Conditions were almost ideal; good size, good power, and consistent. Doesn't make for an enjoyable paddle out, but 10 minutes later, I was outside. Anyway, had a little trouble catching waves on my Redline 11, rode a few with less than exciting results. Timing was a mess today. I did manage a big set close-out wave where I cranked a huge bottom turn, only to be forced to straighten out because there was no wave face to ride. That one turn put a smile on my face, as there is always one ride in a session that you remember for the rest of the day, and sometimes well beyond. Kinda like a round of golf where your game kinda sucks, but everything seems to come together on that one shot, or that one putt for birdie or par. Keeps you coming back, right?

     Here is the reef showing its teeth. Gnarly, big, and sharp. Lots of blood and skin on those rocks.

   "Peeled and ready to go"! I really do love this board. If you want a board that does everything well, and I mean everything, then this is the board for you. It's a "1 board Quiver".

     This is where I park my stuff. Just a little alcove, that sits just below the trailhead viewing area. It's so nice that the sand is filling back in and creating a lovely beach. This place is magic, never looks as good from the top as it does in the water. It is a fickle wave, not terribly powerful, like Huntington Beach, tends to feather before breaking, so late take offs are the norm. It is a bitch to walk up and down the trail, but that definitely cuts down on the crowd. Zoo city is just a mile up the beach, but you only have to walk 20-30 yards to the water, on level sand. Just you and 150 of your best friends!!

     Well, I have to work the next 3 days, so you won't hear from me until next week. I will start writing about past surf sessions, my ear operation last year, when I had to remain on land for 2 months. Kept busy taking photos of my son, brother and friends. Will post those pics as well.

Ciao for now,

Scooter Surfs

     As I pull into the parking lot I see my brother, Mike, and a few other cars. Most of the cars belong to dog owners, but Danny informs me that there are 3 guys in the water, and they aren't catching any waves. Mike said he's going out, because the waves are cleaner, and look to have more push than yesterday. So, Danny and I walk back down to the trail head and take a peek at the waves. There's a little surface chop, slight south wind, but the waves look very peaky, and undisturbed by the wind. We all have poly boards/blanks, so chop isn't a huge factor when it comes to performance turns and dropping into the wave itself. E-type blanks are a different story. And there's the Owl on the truck.

     The owl on Mike's black truck is a funny story. We became friendly out in the water, after seeing each other so much at our spot. So, one day I paddle out and tell him there are 5-6 crows on his cab and the hood of his truck. He says, "yeah, they leave scratch marks and crap all over my car"! So I say, "why don't you buy one of those plastic Owls that people put on their houses and boats to scare off Seagulls?" "Wow, that's a great idea", Mike says. Next time I pull into the parking lot, there is his big black truck and a plastic Owl, staring off the crows. Guess what, it worked. I really think the crows thought his truck was the King Crow, and they hung out to pay tribute to the King, ha.

     The surf was super fun, very peaky, rights and lefts, good power and speed. Danny and Mike surfed in front of the reef, and I surfed in front of the trail. The other 3 guys that were out, exited the water as we entered. Intimidated? Probably just tired? I had some great rights where I pulled off a couple of 180 degree cutbacks into the white water, then turned another 180 degrees to surf the rest of the wave. I haven't done that in quite a while. I love my Redline 11. Yellow and mellow, but it catches anything, turns like an 8ft board, but nose rides as well as my 9'7" single fin Regal. Danny rides a Senate 9'8" tri-fin and Mike rides a 7' Ellis quad. Both guys surf extremely well. That's why I stay away from them in the water.

     These are not the greatest pictures, but it's kinda hard to take good action shots with a point and shoot camera. Mike (top pic) is getting ready to hit the bottom and crank his turn to meet up with the approaching section so he can then do an off the lip re-entry. Danny's (bottom pic) got good speed and is starting his bottom turn to do a snap turn off the top, with plenty of face to work with. He should be smiling when he kicks out; if he doesn't hit the reef, which is in front of him and to the left, out of the picture.

It felt good to get wet, surf by myself and watch my brother and Mike a couple of hundred yards away, rip it up. The walk up the hill is always a killer, but it's a small price to pay to get quality surf to yourself.

Until next time, this is scooter surfs, bidding you a fond adieu......
   

So, got a text from my brother Danny, saying he thought that our spot would be firing. That was around 7:45am. I showed up around 10:30am, and just saw 2 vehicles in the parking lot. That could be good news, on one hand, but not so good news, on the other. Just my brothers SUV and our friend, Mike's truck in the lot. I still love the anticipation and child like wonder at what the ocean will look like when I lay eyes on it.....every time I go down to surf. It never gets old, my friends. 

I always have to look at the surf before I go out. Check the tide, wind, swell, shape of the waves, size(big or small); overall conditions. So, I hoofed it down to the trail head, coffee and camera in hand, to have a look. Only Mike and Danny out, surfing in front of the reef. You need to know what you're doing to surf in front of this reef. I've seen many guys paddle out, new to the break;  only to get tossed on the reef rocks, stumble to shore, bleeding and bruised, and walk the 1/4 mile up a very steep hill. Not too much fun.


So, it was about 2-4ft, occasional bigger set wave, but didn't have much push or shape. Typical post storm wind waves, disorganized and weak. With a bruised tail bone and questionable surf quality, I chose to pass, and watch my brother and friend. They each got some waves, but nothing to write home about. I went back to my car to get my book, and read on the bench waiting for them to finish their surf session.

I brought down my Redline 11 today, but will also bring my Regal as well, tomorrow. I will surf tomorrow, regardless of the conditions. I only have 2 more days to surf before I work, this Friday.

I work at the premier surf shop in South Orange County, but will be leaving in 4 weeks. I will be pursuing my original career path(last 30+ years) as a National Sales Manager for a start up contemporary/better Men's apparel line. I should be back to work selling clothing by June 1. I've had the better part of 2 years out of the apparel business, and the break has rekindled my desire to make my mark in the apparel industry. Too that end, I will also start my own better clothing line to be sold to all my contemporary retailers across the US. The line will be a surf influenced line, mainly screen printed knits, fleece, and caps. I don't plan on selling any surf shops, as the price points will be prohibitive.

Well, that is about all I have for today. I will report the surf conditions tomorrow after I surf. Until then, make it a good day.

Ciao,

Scooter Surfs

Hello everyone, especially trail enthusiasts! From time to time, I will be sharing my experiences of surfing waves, and sharing these waves with dolphins, seals, pelicans, and the occasional shark. What's interesting, is that I surf a spot that is just a mile from one of the most crowded and heavily surfed areas in California; yet, I get these waves all to myself. Sure, there are occasional surfers in the lineup, but I would guess that I surf trails alone, 50% of the time.

Last Wed., March 21, and Thursday March 22, I surfed 2-4ft peaky waves with just a couple of guys out. And we're talking 500 yards in either direction, so even with a dozen guys in the water, it never seems crowded. Add to this, the fact that 70-80% of the surfers that surf trails are beginners; well, you will always get your waves, and you get to help out people that are just learning how to surf. Just watch out for the reef/rocks.

I will upload images from time to time, especially the surf, featuring waves, surfers riding waves, and sea life. It's a rustic place, feels like Mexico, but the 5 Frwy is just 1/4mile away. Ahh, but you can't hear the freeway, see the freeway or the parking lot; so no cars to clutter the view of the cliffs, and as I said before, relatively few people in the water. As a matter of fact, I usually see more dogs with their owners than I see surfers.

Well, I just wanted to start writing about my spot, sometimes referred to as Lloyd's spot. More on that later. Feel free to leave comments or suggestions. I'm a newbie at this, so I could use any advice or help offered. I have no idea, at this point, how to get the word out, but I guess I will start with facebook.

Adios and Via Con Dios,

Scooter Surfs