Got up at the crack of 8:30am to find a text from Mike. Quote, "It be tiny and kinda weak...but what a nice day....supposed to pick up...maybe tide push will help?" Looking out the window, I could see that it was indeed, a beautiful day! I packed up my van with 2 boards; my trusted 9'7" Regal and my 6'10" Funline 11. My board selection was based on Mikes surf report. To my surprise, the surf was bigger than I thought; clean, peaky, glassy, and just a couple of people in the water. I'd say the surf was running 2-4ft with an occasional bigger set, and the waves had some push. Perfect conditions for the Regal. I just prayed my back would not spasm and lock up like it did last Friday. Oh yeah, taking an 800mg IBUPROFEN doesn't hurt either, eh? The wave pictured above, is from last weeks swell. It was big all week.

I caught some great waves with my Regal. I actually did this resin acid wash color pallet to match my Frankenstein fin. I think it works well, don't you? It's a funny thing about riding a wave; as you stroke into the wave, you feel the wave gently lift you and the board up, almost like bread dough rising. It's subtle, exciting, and as it happens you know to pop up to your feet and draw your line and initiate your first turn. You can tell a good surfer from a beginner or intermediate surfer, based on how they paddle, turn their board, approach the wave, and think (or not think) a couple of turns ahead. Most people are content to make a turn then stand there like the Statue of Liberty, trimming until they fall off or try a cutback, where they usually fall off. Then there are others, usually short boarders who flail away like one of those blow up stick men you see at car lots. I've come to the conclusion that anyone who rides a molded epoxy board is of the statue variety. They want a board that doesn't ding, and floats them well. Huh? Really,, that's why you buy a board? I guess if you like riding a board made in China, with no intrinsic value, no soul, and no turning ability, and is like trying to ride a ping pong ball, then by all means, buy and ride them. Just don't expect to improve your surfing for the foreseeable future.

That's Mike doing a nice bottom turn on a solid wave last week. Don't know which day it was, but I do know that it wasn't a big set wave. Mike will take off on anything, so if the wave jacks up in front of him, he's going!! I can't wait until I buy another DSR Camera so I can zoom in and stop the action better. My point and shoot is nice, but not for action photos. The other photo was taken on Thursday. I didn't go out as I thought it was too windy and not good enough. This wave says different......what's funny is this day, these conditions, the size, and the crowd (3 guys) would be considered an epic day in Florida and Texas. I guess I'm a little spoiled, and being 60 years old, with back and knee problems makes me a bit jaded when it comes to mentally committing to a surf session. A set wave today, is pictured below.

 I will relate one other incident that took place prior to surfing today. I had walked down to look at the waves, and there were a few people and dogs checking out the surf. Everyone had left except one guy and his dog. He happened to leave the bluff a minute or two before I started walking back to my car, to suit up and have a surf. As I approach the guy and his dog, the dog stops to do it's business, where I slow down to make sure the guy picks up after the dog. Well, guess what? The guy starts to walk off with his dog, and I say "hey wait a minute, aren't you going to clean up after your dog?" "There are no bags", he says. "Look behind you, there are blue bags right there"! He says, "I'm going this way", and I say, "there are bags up at the parking lot too". I then say I surf here all the time and he says he does too. I tell him, "you'd better pick it up or I'll report you to the state park officials and if that doesn't work, I will take care of you myself"!! As I walk away, I'm shaking my head and wondering why there are such assholes in the world. Both Mike and I have almost stepped in dog doo on the beach. My patience runs thin when it comes to trashing our beaches and trails. Oh, and I did look to see if the guy had picked up his dog's crap, and it was gone. I don't like to threaten people, as it's not my style, but someone has to call people on their bad behavior. Until next time?

Ciao for now,

Scooter Surfs